By Lonnie Bird
The bandsaw is without doubt one of the most generally used woodworking instruments, present in three out four domestic workshops. even if deceptively basic -- a metal blade rotating round rubber-clad wheels, the bandsaw does its top paintings while it really is tuned adequately. regrettably, such a lot owner's manuals supplied through instrument brands are obscure, and the drawings and photographs are unclear.In this publication, expert woodworker Lonnie fowl supplies the entire details bandsaw proprietors wanted got here within the owner's guide plus even more -- what to seem for while purchasing a bandsaw and the way to track it up for optimum functionality. the data is gifted in an obtainable, easy-to-understand means, making this a brief reference in addition to finished guide. all of the info is up to date and carefully researched. first-class colour photographs by way of the writer and a fresh, pleasant format provides this ebook on a vintage woodworking topic a clean glossy glance. This sincerely illustrated and photographed quantity will fast turn into the normal reference and is a must have name for any woodworker.
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Extra info for The Bandsaw Book
The width of the back equals the length of the top and bottom. The sides and back are identical in length. End-Of-Run options Top Top cleat Hanging cleat A ½-in. plywood side B ¼-in. plywood “skin” C ¾-in. * wide by ¼ in. deep, ¼ in. from edge Face Frames:Top View Side Side Bottom cleat Grooveto-groove length Rabbet along inner edges at top and back ¼ in. * wide by ¼ in. deep Bottom Back *This dimension nominal—match to actual thickness of plywood. b u i l d i n g A FA C e - F r A m e C A b i n e t 47 E F whatcan gowrong For complex assemblies, choose an adhesive with a long open time, such as white or liquid hide glue, so you’ll finish before the glue grabs.
42 ca r ca s e a s s e m b l y 8. Clamp the parts tightly before driving the s t r a t e g i e s Photo I , by sanding with 100- and 120-grit abrasive in a random-orbit sander. Finally, sand with the grain, using a sanding block. makethecarcasecomponents Beginning cabinetmakers usually don’t have much trouble making the face-frame, but they often get confused when it’s time to cut the other cabinet components. Uncertainty over joinery makes the situation seem even more confusing. Fortunately, you can eliminate all of the uncertainty by using a simple system that relates virtually all of the measurements back to the face frame.
Referring to the drawing at right, you can see that there are two types of holes in the end panels—construction holes and system holes. The construction holes, typically 8 mm in diameter, accept dowels that hold the carcase together. Centering the dowels in the thickness of the top and bottom panels means that the centerline of the construction holes is one-half the stock thickness from the end of the panel. Of course, you can substitute knock-down fasteners or biscuits for hidden joints, or even use screws if the ends of your cabinet won’t be visible.