Download Making & modifying woodworking tools by Jim Kingshott PDF

By Jim Kingshott

Make the entire vintage hand-woodworking instruments you will have with this amazing advisor. From the basic fabrics and finishes to the workshop innovations, you are going to examine each side of creating and editing your personal instruments. track and increase a vintage Bailey development aircraft, regulate bench vises, make handles to enhance saws, chisels, and screwdrivers. each bankruptcy comprises the author's personal pictures, line drawings, and plans. Bonus: a colour part that includes the entire tasks

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You because this stair is in a garage-but that loca- can use a variety of tools such as a plumb bob or a level and a long straightedge. Luddite that tion doesn't materially change anything about building the stairs. Finding the landing starting points Far faster than using a weight and a string, a laser plumb bob allows you to quickly transfer the location of the head of the stairwell to the floor. Align the upper red laser dot on the corner of the floor framing (left), and the lower dot is the corresponding plumb point below (right).

Note where the bubble falls within the vial, then turn the level end for end. The bubble should read exactly as it did before. If it doesn't, it's trash (unless the level has adjustable vials or a lifetime guarantee). Locating the bottom end of the stair. The location of the end of the stringer is the sum of the flight's unit runs, plus the thickness of the hangerboard, from the end of the stairwell. It's measured from the plumb point, and the other locations shown are all established from it. pOint, then measure down the thickness of the sub floor and mark that point.

Scribble out the initial mark to avoid mistakenly cutting to it. The riser cuts are compound angles. A sliding compound-miter saw set to the riser angle and a 45° bevel handles the cuts, which are made from the face of the skirtboard. Cut the treads from the stair side ofthe skirtboard. Ease the blade in, starting from the back of the tread, and watch so it doesn't overcut. Note that the reference lines are scribbled out to avoid confusion. the tread cut line. The tread cut is not as critical as the riser cut.

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