By Kerry Pierce
The terror of chairmaking is gone!
Worried that you just dont have what it takes to create attractive and comfy chairs? From getting the correct perspective to ensuring the dimensions is simply correct and that every chair is comfortable—chairmaking could be a daunting activity for any woodworker. yet, by no means worry! writer Kerry Pierce attracts upon a long time chairmaking event to supply a handful of straightforward jigs that take the phobia out of chairmaking.
This booklet indicates you ways to make a number of kinds and kinds of chairs, from a ladder-back Shaker chair to a continuous-arm Windsor chair. Youll methods to weave tape and rush seats, carve and form wood seats and masses extra.
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Additional resources for Chairmaking Simplified: 24 Projects Using Shop-Made Jigs
When the part is securely installed between centers — after I’ve checked to see that the part clears the rest — I turn on the lathe, holding one hand as shown (see photo 6). I don’t always perform this little act of workshop safety, but I do whenever I have a spindle that I suspect might be a bit unbalanced. I put out my hand because I would rather a careening part strike my hand than my head. The Roughing Gouge Dance PHOTO 6 When I turn on the lathe with a freshly mounted blank, I stand back and hold my hand in front of my face to protect myself against the unlikely event of a blank coming apart.
This means when you’re pulling the knife toward you, you need to pull it in line with the pipe clamp. If you pull it toward you, and you’re standing beside the vise, the part may come loose. Be sure to bring your patience with you the first time you work a part held in puppets. Drawknife and spokeshave work require a sensitivity to grain direction PHOTO 11 After I’ve removed the blank from the puppets, I clamp it to my bench and work the nose with a carving gouge. that machine shaping doesn’t always require.
I cut a square of metal mesh (also called hardware cloth in this part of the country) and screwed it in place to cover the bottom end of the PVC. It holds the ends of steaming parts above the water in the fryer and allows the steam to wash over them. I then cut a hole in the metal lid of the fryer, inserted the mesh-covered end of the PVC through the hole and fastened it in place with four sheet metal screws inserted through the outside of the PVC just above where it enters the fryer's lid. I later added a cap to the top of the PVC into which I’d drilled a half dozen holes.