By Andrew Engel
Stair development combines precision carpentry with difficult math, so even skilled developers can locate it demanding. yet as this largely illustrated publication demonstrates, any builder who can degree the gap among flooring can plan and construct a gorgeous set of stairs. by way of sincerely laying out the geometry, making plans, and development concerned, writer Andy Engel takes the reader from an easy constitution of framing lumber to a suite of stairs healthy for a king. From construction and fitting railings to utilizing off-the-shelf stair components, development Stairs lays out the method sincerely and fully. the entire reader must is a router, observed, drill, and point. This raising e-book fills in the entire relaxation -- step-by-step by means of step.
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Additional resources for Building stairs
You because this stair is in a garage-but that loca- can use a variety of tools such as a plumb bob or a level and a long straightedge. Luddite that tion doesn't materially change anything about building the stairs. Finding the landing starting points Far faster than using a weight and a string, a laser plumb bob allows you to quickly transfer the location of the head of the stairwell to the floor. Align the upper red laser dot on the corner of the floor framing (left), and the lower dot is the corresponding plumb point below (right).
Note where the bubble falls within the vial, then turn the level end for end. The bubble should read exactly as it did before. If it doesn't, it's trash (unless the level has adjustable vials or a lifetime guarantee). Locating the bottom end of the stair. The location of the end of the stringer is the sum of the flight's unit runs, plus the thickness of the hangerboard, from the end of the stairwell. It's measured from the plumb point, and the other locations shown are all established from it. pOint, then measure down the thickness of the sub floor and mark that point.
Scribble out the initial mark to avoid mistakenly cutting to it. The riser cuts are compound angles. A sliding compound-miter saw set to the riser angle and a 45° bevel handles the cuts, which are made from the face of the skirtboard. Cut the treads from the stair side ofthe skirtboard. Ease the blade in, starting from the back of the tread, and watch so it doesn't overcut. Note that the reference lines are scribbled out to avoid confusion. the tread cut line. The tread cut is not as critical as the riser cut.